How do waves change as they approach the shore?
1 Answer
Dec 30, 2017
The wavelength snorters and the height of the crest increases.
Explanation:
As the waves approach the shore the troughs of the waves encounter resistance from the bottom of the ocean. The friction between the wave and the ocean bottom slows the wave. This friction reduces the wavelength of the waves. As the wavelength gets shorter the crest get higher and the troughs deeper.
The deeper troughs experience even more friction and resistance. As the bottom of the wave slows down the top of the wave or crests outruns the bottom of the wave or trough. This causes the crest to curl and crash. This is observed as the white water and surf near the shore.
