How does an ocean wave change as it moves from deep water to shallow water?
1 Answer
Oct 22, 2016
As the wave reaches the shore the wave slows down and the crest increase in height.
Explanation:
The wave has a trough extending down equal to the height of the crest.
As the wave approaches the shore the trough starts to interact with the bottom of the ocean. As the trough interact with the surface of the bottom the interaction creates drag slowing down the bottom of the wave.
The drag on the trough of the wave causes the crest to increase in height. Also the crest does not slow down as much as the trough. This causes the crest to extend beyond the trough creating the breakers seen near shore.
